Day 5 – Khaarek Embroidery

Developing on the skills we learnt yesterday. Khaarek embroidery is a geometric outline of black stitches (generally squares), filled in with satin stitch coloured threads. This style particularly requires a great deal of concentration, as the geometric shapes need to all be even and perfectly connected to form the overall design. Otherwise when you add colour to it, the uneven stitches become very obvious. But when you do add the colour it really makes the colour pop!

Khaarek Embroidery with Aabhla Bharst (mirror embroidery(
sing the mirrors

We were then briefly taught about another embroidery named Aabhla Bharat. Aabhla Bharat embroidery are stitches that attach small pieces of mirrors onto fabric. It was interesting to see how this type of stitch securely attaches a material many people wouldn’t necessarily associate with fabric. But this technique is very traditional for these women you can see a lot of examples of mirror work and the fine stitches used.

Lots of concentration

In the last hour at Kala Raksha, we learnt how to make rope handles with coloured thread (Dori) and gold (Kalahtath) threads. For this technique we had to use both our hands and feet, which meant that you where able to keep the thread tight with the tension of your feet and toes.

To finish off the day, we visited a marketplace in Bhuj. It was eye-opening to see the over populated streets filled with people, vehicles, along with animals. The streets are quite a busy place as scooters are mostly driven and with all the tooting it can quite frustrating with the noise. But is a fair amount of noise and chaos that comes with taking 12 students from New Zealand to somewhere that may have never seen another nationality in their life, especially since Bhuj is quite a rural community but very well known for its crafts and talent.

Day 4 – Bhuj and Suf embroidery

First day in Bhuj, A sleep in day as we only leave the hotel at 9.15am compared to our normal 8.15, this was great news for many of us. Quite an exciting day as we were learning from the artisans of Kala Raksha. The women will normally start leaning to create there own embroidery at the age of 13/14 but will be exposed to embroidery within their house. We were told about the craft and tradition of expressing yourself through the embroidery. Through the embroidery process it ensures a fair income for the women as normally embroidery stops after the wedding due to raising a family and keeping up with the household. The embroidery today was called Suf embroidery this ensures that the embroidery on the front and back are both very tidy. Quite a special experience to be able to bond without speaking the same language.

In a near by village we watched the last place where Rogan Art is made in a traditional but very intricate form. this art form that consisted of the man using a gelatinous paint made from castor oil and pigment to create intricate patterns. Finally to finish off a day of watching so many skilled people making amazing arts we watched a man mold a bell from tin which was like watching magic happen before our eyes as  were all the other crafts we encountered on this amazing day.

Just the chance to be able to be off the bus and interacting with the locals was just something so special. They were all so interested and curious but oh so friendly. The sad state of the lifestyle doesn’t bother them because they have everything they need. Just such a special memory and feeling, one that wont be forgotten.

Day 3 – Leaving Ahmedabad for Bhuj

Another early rise today as when needed to pack and organise ourselves as we would be leaving Ahmedabad today. Being late for a tour at the Calico Museum is not permitted since being our first stop of the day we wanted to be on time. So much so we ended up arriving a whole hour early, we were sent away and told to wait until 10.10am, a suggestion of visiting the temple across the road was made.

Wow is all I can say this temple work was just beautiful and the gold details were another world. The people were very curious of where we had come from as we all look quite different.

We browsed some local shops to stock up on some snacks for our afternoon bus ride. Later to find out we should have bartered the price and were ripped off as told by our tour guide.

Back to the calico museum we went, we learnt about the craft and skill that is held within these walls, the knowledge held by the tour guide for each selected pieces that were spoken about was a true passion for the love of arts, craft and fashion. The Calico museum has a huge comprehensive collection of Indian textiles, it is one of the most celebrated institutions of its kind in the world. The Calico collection along with the Sarabhai Foundation collection of outstanding bronzes, pichhwais, Jain art and Indian miniature paintings are housed in The Retreat in the Shahibag area of the city.

It was an eye opening experience to many lost talents which where keep in such good conditions dating all the way back to the 8th century. I think my favourite part was the block printing, embroidery and needlework section right at the end, due to the fact it was super relevant and could be taken in to thought for future and current collections. Back on the bus and off to lunch before descending for our 7 hour bus trip to Bhuj.

Day 2 – A firsts of many…

Another early start to the morning however comforted with the need for some homemade muesli and New Zealand freshly ground coffee from my dear friend Abbey, set me straight on my way.

On the bus about an hour out of the city to a small rural village called Nardipur to visit a few of Shripal Shah’s loom weavers. This type of loom hand weaving has been a lost talent and skill for many years due to the fact that this jacquard loom requires 2 highly skilled weavers to be used. The skill required to operate such a machine with precision that no speaking is even required between the two men. It is pretty breath taking, to be able to see it in person, quite an unforgettable experience. It was not until Shripal convinced Kuphai the master weaver to come and work for him which took many of years of convincing that they would revive this type of hand weaving.

Shripal shah, is in charge of the business and is one of very few people trying to keep these traditional techniques alive, as a lot of production has been taken over by computerised technology. Through his initiatives, he is able to support the livelihoods of weavers and their families. His workers are paid fair wages and he supports over 6,000 women spinners, just for silks alone.

We were told that, that specific piece it would be sold for around 34,000 rupees per metre, which is equivalent to around $800NZD, and would take 17-18 days to weave.

During the visit to this small village a few of us needed to use the bathroom, not knowing what to expect but the desperation was out weighed. Us westerners were in for a treat, as for me pants wasn’t the best choice. The village women were lovely to let us borrow their loo. Upon this journey was quite a surreal experience when curiosity took over and a camel was spotted, I could not help but real intrigued to get a closer look and even a touch, as one of the locals owned the camel.

Next stop was Shripals current shop selling goods such as spices, fabric, copper, perfume, scarves, and many others. I was lucky enough to be able to buy some goods for gifts and some absolutely beautiful indigo natural dyed, hand woven and hand spun fabric.

We visited the new shop, currently in renovations where Shripal wanted to display the weavers and their works on the first floor, the second was for more displays and the third floor was to store food. He wishes to use no electricity for his shop only oil lamps, by using large window holes and large domed roof it allows the light in.

Stopping at an antique store where you could buy rare goods of heritage you would never find somewhere else. Exploring some of the streets and hidden treasures for our last day in Ahemdabad for now.

We were invited for dinner by a lecturer from University called Harita whos family and husband live in Ahmedabad. The home was just beautiful so welcoming and with quite a simplistic approach to furniture and interior design. The food was so tasty and it was refreshing that there were even some meat options which was very nice and a lot of the meals we have been given are vegetarian due to the local religion and beliefs.

1st March – Exploring Ahmedabad

I’m not sure whether it was the person in the street vomiting or the two dogs fighting in the alleyway that I should be thanking for my morning alarm. But some sleep is better than none, an early start today downstairs for breakfast Indian style with curry, cereal, fresh fruit, and toast.

Before on the bus to Arvind Mills passing the local flower market on our way. Arvind mills in the leading company in India which challenge sustainable practices in Fashion, Retail, Mass customisation, Engineering, Workwear Labour Textiles, Environment solutions, Real Estate and Telecom. Arvind mills is so dedicated to leaving the smallest footprint from their company despite having 14 large manufacturing sites. They own or manage 15 Global Apparel Brands including commonly known brands such as Gap, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. The company ensures that they reserve and reuse as much of the wastage as possible including 4.9 Billion litres of freshwater is saved every year at Arvind Santej. And use 50% less water during the indigo process compared to conventional indigo producers.

We started at Arvind mills in the showroom observing how the design each collection with stories and targeting certain markets. We had a quick browse around at the new technology and the new fabric with the machines and workers in action.

Next stop was the Indigo museum where we got to look at 30 artist over a variety of mediums that used the indigo material it to their artworks and structures.

So far you can really appreciate how lucky we are in New Zealand and even in the smallest of things…. On our travels today we were able to spot an Elephant, Squirrels, Camels, Goats and Monkeys. I have also included a few landscape sights.

28 February: Arriving in Ahmedabad

On the way to the Le Grande Residency Hotel from the airport we were quick to learn that beeping your horn here in India is a courtesy gesture, to let the person in front know you are behind or passing. There is not 5 seconds that go by before you hear someone sitting on their horn, much to like Auckland City CBD on your typical Friday or Saturday drunk night out. We passed a few wild cows making the street their runway and lots of dogs sleeping where they please. After finally making it to the hotel we were served a beautiful dinner complementary of the hotel. Before finally crawling in to bed at a lovely hour of 1am.